Thursday, February 9, 2012 - 11:49am

The other day I had lunch with the Mauritson Family to discuss our block of Zin at Rockpile.  Rockpile is a unique Sonoma County AVA situated at a high elevation above the fog.  A combination of micro-climate and gravely soil - this chunk of land produces much revered fruit.  Part of what I love about my job is meeting with folks like the Mauritsons - multi-generational grape growers.  This family has been cultivating grapes in Dry Creek Valley for five generations succeeding at growing ultra-premium fruit.  During lunch we talked about prices of grapes, yield per acre and future plans.  The "deals" we make in wine country are often born of trust and sealed with a simple handshake - this always amazes people when I tell them about how we "draft" our contracts!  Our partner, Randy Peters, grows the majority of the fruit for our wines.  The other farmers that we work with assist us in carefully selecting varietals from select vineyards to create some diversity with regards to our portfolio.  Over the years, Josh Bartels, our assistant winemaker, and I have enjoyed several wines from the Rockpile appellation.  We are ecstatic to have a block from such a prestigious AVA.  Many, many thanks to the Mauritsons for this special opportunity!  We look forward to working with you in years to come.

Erik Miller

Winemaking Journal

Friday, January 13, 2012 - 8:38pm

Sf Chronicle Wine Competition logo

This past weekend we received the results from the 2012 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.  This contest is heralded as the "largest competition of American Wines in the world" and judges over 5500 entries.  I am happy to report that we did extremely well!  We entered 5 wines and they all medaled, including Best of Class on our 2009 Russian River Chardonnay and 2009 Dry Creek Zinfandel, Double Gold on our Peters Vineyard, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and Gold on our Dry Creek Valley Merlot.  Does winning these accolades mean we actually do craft the best Chardonnay and Zinfandel? Our DCV Zin that pulled in the Double Gold and Best of Class was also awarded 92 points from Wine Spectator.  So, perhaps you are thinking WOW that Zin must be outstanding!  On the other hand, Wine Enthusiast gave it 82 points.  What does all this mean?   Well, wines and palates are subjective, and, for example, some will love a wine while others may think it's too ripe or "out of focus".

Because of this press, we are sure to sell out of these wines quickly and that is great.  Looking to the future, what happens next yeat when we enter wines in this pretigious SF Chronicle competition and only receive a few Golds? Is that a letdown because we didn't make Best of Class?  Should we shy away from the contest because we are not sure we will do as well as we did this year?  I can assure you of one thing - I will continue to be the winemaker and Randy will continue to be the winegrower who cultivates this caliber of fruit that we crush in the winery year in and year out.  We will also keep you posted on the people and publications that love our wines and award them high ratings.  As for the average ratings and reviews...not so much!  Wine (and your palate) is subjective...drink what you like!

Cheers!

Erik

Winemaking Journal

Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 6:35pm

I get a lot of questions about oak in wine and its role in the process of aging wine.  At Kokomo we have this saying: "We oak our wine to taste, similarly to salting our food to taste".  We don't want the salt to overpower the dish, but, rather to accent the flavors of the dish.  Same goes for accenting wine with oak.  I have found that you need a percentage of new oak on wines, especially for crafting ultra-premium wines.  However, the amount of new oak to be used varies from varietal to varietal and vineyard to vineyard.  We also like a bolder Eastern European or American oak on certain wines but by far and away, French oak domintes in our cellar.  This costs us quite a bit more but the results are well worth it.  We mostly use 'medium' toast and occasionally use 'medium plus' toast when needed.  We use toasted heads on American and Eastern European but never on French.  Perfecting the oak thing is an ongoing trial.  It's about marrying the exact complimentary oak regimen with each wine/vineyard to pair beautifully.

Winemaking Journal

Tuesday, December 13, 2011 - 6:32pm

I put wines into two main categories – cocktail wines and food wines.  Food wines are self-explanatory in that they are to be paired with the flavors and textures of food.  Cocktail wines, on the other hand, are designated to be consumed å la carte.  You come home from work, kick your feet up and have a glass of wine, or, you have an evening out at your local wine bar, or perhaps you have a dessert wine as an apertif.

 

Personally, I’m in the camp that believes food wines should be lower in alcohol and should have vibrant acidity.  We certainly make wines that fall into that category, however, I don’t believe that all of our wines necessarily have to be in that same style.  For a wine to be consumed on its own, we at Kokomo make a few “cocktail” wines – a “riper” style of wine that is juicy with bold flavors without the searing acidity.  I think as wine drinkers we need to separate the two styles of wines and not be quick to hate on one style vs. another.  Realizing that these wines are consumed and enjoyed in two different settings opens up our palates and enriches our wine experiences.

Winemaking Journal

Saturday, December 3, 2011 - 6:59am

A hot topic of conversation among wine industry folks are the “Millennials”, also known as the emerging group of wine drinkers that fall between the ages of 21 and 36.  This demo is certainly into wine and the older establishment is wondering how to attract their loyalty.  Being 35, I am at the tail end of this age group, so I guess that makes me an expert!  In my opinion, the way you rally Millennials to support your brand is by NOT trying to target them, a bit of reverse psychology, if you will.  This segment of the wine consuming population is after one thing – AUTHENTICITY!

Here at Kokomo, I feel like we have captured a lot of fans in this age group and I attribute that growth to our company being real – playing the music we like, hanging pictures we like, genuinely talking to visitors as if we are hanging out with friends, and making wines that we like to drink.  Bottom line, it’s pretty simple – the Millennials have been bombarded with slick sophisticated marketing their whole lives and are adept at smelling a fraud a mile away.  Keeping it real and keeping our messaging authentic has been a totally natural process for us, and guess what?  It feels right and it works.

Winemaking Journal

Sunday, November 20, 2011 - 9:42pm

The Wine Lover's Holiday – Thanksgiving!  The time of year to be with
family and friends, sharing two of the things we love the most – food and
wine.  It’s also a winemaker’s favorite season when the harvest is
complete and we get to sample some of our latest creations.  Something I
have made a tradition of doing at Thanksgiving is bringing new release
wines to the table and discussing how they are evolving.  This year I’ll
bring the 2009 Mounts Vineyard Zinfandel and the 2009 Gopher Hill Peters
Vineyard Pinot Noir to the feast.  What a cool feeling to know that our
Kokomo Wine will be on the tables of so many people – sharing our
varietals with loved ones who have never heard of us.

Thank you!

Winemaking Journal

Wednesday, November 2, 2011 - 9:57am

One of the most common questions I get is “how did you learn to make wine and only be 35?”  After I mention my post grad UC Davis studies everyone seems to be satisfied with my formal learning process.  As to my hands-on learning evolution, I started in the cellar and learned from the ground up.   I wanted to take the time on this particular blog to give a nod and a thank you to fellow winemakers who take the time to engage in conversation and answer my questions about their challenges and experiences that are similar to mine. 

One of my neighbors here at Timber Crest Farms, Ben Papapietro, is a meticulous note taker and has on more than one occasion opened up his notebooks to share his knowledge.  He is certainly a master of Pinot Noir and a great mentor!  On the other side of the parking lot is a young wine maker by the name of Jamie Peterson.  Jamie and I often sit over wine and engage in interesting conversation about fermentation techniques.  Recently I was treated to a couple of fantastic winery tours – special thanks to Biale Winery in Napa who specialize in Zinfandel and Ramey Wine Cellars of Healdsburg who are masters of Chardonnay.

My winemaking style will evolve with time and continued discussions with various winemakers.  It is satisfying to practice an art that is centuries old and our passion compels us to make better and better wines!

 

Winemaking Journal

Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 7:23am

During this harvest season we have had a lot of folks from Indiana visit us here at the winery - some familiar faces but most of them have been first time visitors.  Because I was born and raised in Kokomo and Josh is from Carmel (pronounced like the candy, not Clint Eastwood’s hood), we have a BIG Indiana connection and when these folks walk through the door I love taking them out to the vineyard and touring them around the cellar, the Red Carpet treatment, if you will!  What we love about this connection is that we share stories about Purdue or what neighborhoods we are from and who we know in common.  These moments give Josh and me a little taste of home during the busy harvest months as we reflect on our roots.  It may seem biased but we certainly make sure that we extend that Hoosier Hospitality to all that yield from the Great State of Indiana!

Winemaking Journal

Wednesday, October 12, 2011 - 1:13pm

Today is October 12 and the rains have subsided.  Prognosis at this point…we are bringing in Chardonnay as quickly as possible ‘round the clock.  We brought in half the Chard before the rain and it is BEAUTIFUL with bright acidity.  I decided to take a calculated risk and let several tons stay on the vine longer – looking for a rise in sugar and higher ph (lower acidity).  When we first looked at the forecast, the weather called for 2 inches of rain over 2 days but what we got was 4.5 inches over 4 days!  It’s during these challenges of harvest when we are thankful to have an experienced Vineyard Crew headed up by Randy Peters who is blazing through his 40th harvest this year.  We seem to have made out better than most with our aggressive leaf pulling along with the use of some new organic sprays that have deterred a good deal of botrytis (bunch rot).  At this point, we are HAND SELECTING only Chardonnay clusters with no botrytis.   Cabernet?  Still on the vine for another couple of weeks.  Cab clusters are thick skinned and the berries are loosely clustered, so, when we do have an early rain it doesn’t bother it a bit.  The loose cluster structure allows for plenty of air flow preventing the possibility of botrytis.  Cab is usually the last to come in, so no worries there!  One more thing….we have been racking a lot of wine….so far in barrel – Zinfandel, Malbec, Primitivo and Pinot Noir….the cellar is filling up quickly.

Winemaking Journal

Tuesday, September 27, 2011 - 9:15am

We have brought in all the Zin for the 2010 season and overall we are very pleased with the harvest!  Our new Rockpile Zinfandel vineyard is looking great and we are excited to see what flavors we will end up with.  Our first wine of the year is completed  - our 2011 dry Muscat.  Randy planted this one acre of Muscat on the Timber Crest estate and it will be our first bottling of a Muscat and will be available to Wine Club only.  (Only 60 cases total will be produced).

Winemaking Journal